Saturday, August 8, 2009

Camel Xing

With one month left here in UB, I am trying to wrap my head around my experiences here. I wish it was easier to put such experiences into words but instead of words, I have feelings and memories that are floating around in my mind and sometimes they will suddenly tap into my consciousness and remind me of certain moments, conversations or sights that brought me happiness or interest. But something I can do is begin to describe this city and the characteristics that set it apart from the world we are so accustomed to in California. One of the funniest and strangest things about this city is traffic and the behavior of Mongolian drivers. When crossing the street, you must become hyper-aware or else you could be roadkill. Pedestrians have learned to be aggressive and quick because laws protecting us do not exist here. Within a few days of living here I realized the game I have to play to get where I need to go and do it safely. Mostly, I am dodging cars, darting across streets and ignoring crosswalks because they mean nothing. The funniest part of this, I imagine, will be my behavior once in California. My friend Camille and I were laughing about the reactions of our friends when we get home and act like fools in the streets. Here, a car will barely stop for you in the street but at home, a car will screech to a stop if you step one foot into the street. 
This trait of UB is just one of many that set it apart from the world we know and understand in the states. 

Sunday, July 26, 2009

Stepping into the Steppe

Hi All, sorry for the delay in posting, I guess I've just been having too much fun :) Today is Sunday July 26 and I just got home from a weekend with Dennis, and three Californians who are coming through UB and staying with us for a few days. My student, Bolor, invited us to visit her family in the countryside. We took the bus yesterday morning for two hours and ended up in one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen. Nestled between lush green valleys and tall rocky mountains, we found ourselves staying with Bolor's herding family in a settlement of three gers. Her father, a retired police officer, returned to the countryside and now lives with his mother and a few siblings in this heavenly spot where he herds horses, cows, sheep, and goats. This place was breathtaking and I will post pictures at the end of my writing. 
As for the rest of my life, I've been working very hard teaching and feeling mostly rewarded as my students become much more comfortable in the classroom, volunteering and having an easier time understanding normally paced English speech. Some of our students have taken a liking to us and offered to take us out on the town and come over and cook buuz for us. One great thing about Mongolians are their natural hospitable way. So many Mongolians have offered us food, company and even their family's homes to visit. I feel so grateful to experience such a culture where hospitality is instinctive. 
While in UB, we recently were able to visit the Gandan Buddhist Monastery. We were so fortunate to have one of Dennis' students who is a monk, give us the grand tour. Pictures will follow...
I'm coming up on my halfway point here in Mongolia and it's always nice to get over the hump of something. I am looking forward to having some free time in the end of August and beginning of September to do more significant traveling. But as for short travels, we have another weekend adventure planned to go to the Gobi next weekend. I am so excited to take the train across Mongolia and end up in one of the most famous deserts on earth. I'm hoping I get to ride a camel. Alright, well I hope this a sufficient enough report of my travels, it has been difficult to find the time to sit down and write on this blog but I will do my best to keep up with it. If you have any pressing questions or just want to say hello, e-mail me at lodea@ucsc.edu
Love you all!!
Feast your eyes

The ger's beautiful inside roof.
Frisbee on the steppe
Take a deep breath
Bolor in the ger
Ah, yes.
Babies!
Bolor's dad serves us airag (fermented mare's milk),
yogurt, milk tea, and cheese curds. DAIRY!
Looking out of the ger
Arrived in countryside and quite happy

Eat the buuz



Buuz!
Buuz factory
A storm is a-brewin'
Fresh Veggies!

Oh, Happy day

Gandan Monastery


Horse races



Naadaam Horse races 



UB at dusk

Tuesday, July 7, 2009



Hello all, I am coming up on the end of my third week here in Ulaanbaatar, and we are entering into the weekend and festivities of the national holiday Naadam which occurs this Friday through Monday. Our plans are to travel out to the country to stay with the thousands of horse racers and their families before they, being 10-13 year old boys, do a 30 mile race. Nyamsuren has invited about 30 of our students to join us, so we will be a crowd of 40 people staying in gers (Mongolian nomadic tents) out in the country and watching the boys and their horses race across the open plains of this vast and intriguing country. 
Dennis and I are working hard in our classrooms, usually coming home tired and content with another day of laughter, confusion, and progression. My students are beginning to gain an understanding of my personality and teaching methods, which are changing and developing everyday. And although we are working like dogs (one of the many idioms we have taught), we are finding ways to discover new, exciting, scary, regressive and thankfully progressive things in this city. After meeting a group of students from Pittsburgh, we have been able to invite each other to events in the city. So far, we have participated in a rousing game of trivia at a local bar, experienced the first ever gay art exhibit in Mongolia, attended the opening of a rescued, ancient, wooden, Russian building, turned into a musuem, once inhabited by the famous Buddhist painter Nicholas Roerich. This exhibit was amazing, viewing pieces from students aging from 18-23 who competed for a prize by creating Roerich-inspired art. Here are a few of my favorite pieces:






This exhibit was exciting and fun.
Tomorrow, we are heading to the UB palace (a concert venue) to see Altan Urag, a Mongolian folk band. Here is a youtube video of a famous song of theirs:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBNqY5pBU-4

I hope you all are well and I will update soon.
Kisses,
Lucy

Friday, June 26, 2009

Today is Friday and I just finished my first week of school. I am so excited for these next two months of teaching although it will be chaotic. On the first day of class the students were very shy and unwilling to volunteer and speak in front of the other students. I have realized that this is one of the most difficult things to do when learning a language. Most language learners (including myself) are so hesitant to speak in front of others in fear of making mistakes or sounding silly. Most of the students giggle and laugh when they have to say more than five words in front of their peers and myself but I hope that I can make them comfortable enough to speak more and more each day. I have been trying really hard to be friendly and a little bit goofy infront of them so that they feel more relaxed in the classroom. But for the most part, I have been pleasantly surprised by their friendly demeanors and smiling faces. Most of them laugh a lot and seem genuinely interested in learning English and especially about our culture in the United States. I hope to show them a different side of America rather than what they see through the mass distribution of American media (i.e. Britney Spears, Enrique Iglesias). There is so much to share and so much to avoid; it can get overwhelming.
We work long days in this office and luckily it is a nice space on the ninth floor of a building so from every window I have a beautiful view of UB and the surrounding mountains. The weather is warm although the sky has threatened a few summer storms yet nothing has happened yet.
I was worried about surviving as a vegetarian here in UB and although I did succumb and try "buuz" a national dish consisting of noodle dumplings filled with mutton (eh...), I was pleasantly surprised to find a Vegetarian cafe one floor below our school. In this cafe, they serve traditional Mongolian food but with the bold decision to not serve meat. This is a big step in Mongolia because meat has been the staple food since the beginning of time. But now that people are living modernly in the city, vegetarianism has become an option. This cafe has delicious fresh. simple salads (lettuce, tomatoes, cucumber, green onion, olive oil, vinegar), vegetarian buuz (yum), tsuiven (handmade noodles with vegetables), tofu dishes, and a different soup every day. You can stuff yourself here for under 3,000 tugrug which translates to about $2.50. Other than this cafe, there is a plethora of restaurants and options that offer many different international cuisines. Yesterday, Dennis and I went to a french cafe and had paninis with fresh homemade bread. You can drink tea anywhere and the Mongolian beer isn't bad.
Overall, this trip has been great so far. I don't feel uneasy although I have avoided going out alone at night since there is a good amount of drunk men roaming the streets being fools and yelling obscenities although none have approached me yet. Most Mongolians are very polite and respectful even to the token tall white girl. This weekend I plan to discover more of the city and on Sunday the school director, Nyamsuren, will drive us out to the country. She promised to take out out of UB every weekend and we will spend a few days during Nadaam festival camping in the country watching the horse races (mama, I will defintely take pictures for you), and after our two months of teaching we will take a week long trip up to lake Khövsgöl (look it up on Wikipedia, it's 2 million years old!)
I will post more pictures soon and miss you all! if you want a post card- send me your address.
xo, Lucy

Monday, June 22, 2009

Modern Day Mongolian Celebrities

Today is Monday and we had quite the exciting day here in UB. The weather has turned out to be perfect, very similar to a ideal spring day in Northern California. Dennis and I have been exploring around the town and he is giving me a crash course in Cyrillic which is scary to look at but not too difficult to get the hang of. Still, understanding Mongolians is near impossible at this point. We met Nyamsuren (the school director and woman who has given us her apartment for the summer) outside the apartment and went to the immigration office to register ourselves. After that little extravaganza we visited "Success School" for the first time where we met her comrade and assistant director of the school André, a French man. It was fun to talk in French with André who is an animated, and classically funny Frenchman. The school is very nice, with two large classrooms, a huge computer lab, and an office for Nyamsuren, André, Leah (an American woman), Dennis, and I. Soon after that I got to meet my 30 students. They were very shy although thankfully just about the same age as me and look eager to be there. The deal with the school is that these students are offered free English education for the summer after going through an interview process. Many of them are from the country side without much money although very determined to learn English to improve their chances of getting international jobs after graduating college. While we spoke with them, a local TV station came and filmed the meeting. At this moment, I realized how important the implementation of English education is to the Mongolian people. After this meeting, the five of us, plus Leah's beautiful 11 month old baby girl Amélie, drove to national TV station in UB to be interviewed on live television! This was crazy. We were wired with headsets and brought onto a live set in which we sat in a cheesy pink and white decorated "living room" and spoke to a television personality about our intentions, experience, and reasons for visiting Mongolia. Nyamsuren translated for us and we sat there looking mostly confused by their chatter in Mongolian. 
Today was really exciting and I can't wait to actually start teaching on Wednesday. I feel really blessed to have students my age and I hope that I will form friendships with them, leading to an even more intense and personal discovery of this city. I am also eager to learn more about Buddhism and the history of the Mongolian people. I will write more soon.
xo, lucy

Sunday, June 21, 2009


Lucky strikes for Perl
Kitchen, perfect sunny perch to read
Zanabazaar Art Museum- absolutely amazing
Mongolian Graff UB Graff
UB- town center
Sukhbaatar Square
View from Apartment
Bedroom view
Bedroom view
View of China from the Plane
Bye Bye Beijing
"Don't be sketch"
My impression of Beijing
Landed in Beijing, and no, Californians, that is 
not fog, it's smog. Yum.